Basics of Breeding Gouldians

Abstract

These days the husbandry of
breeding the Gouldian Finch is
well understood, making it easy
to breed providing basic rules are followed.
Although, as we all know, it
can be a very difficult species if treated
in a conventional fashion.
There is nothing wrong with keeping
a few Gouldians in an ornamental
mixed species aviary but, obviously,
you should not expect to breed except
accidently. These notes, however, are
for the person who is serious about
breeding Gouldians and are somewhat
uncompromising.
What Not To Do
Colonies. Do not try to colony
breed Gouldians. In a colony, only the
dominant pair or pairs will breed.
Depending upon the number of birds
per square foot, those at the bottom of
the pecking order are likely to die from
stress.
Outdoors. Do not breed them outdoors.
Gouldians do not adapt well to
changing weather.
Hygiene. Do not shortcut on
hygiene. Gouldians have low resistance
to bacterial contamination.
Pampering. Do not pamper
Gouldians with a large variety of foods
and avoid the "drug store" syndrome.
In the wild, Gouldians feed off of only
one species of sorghum grass and a
few insects (20o/o of the diet). This is a
species which can easily be killed by
kindness by feeding too rich a diet.
Remember, it has spent millions of
years adapting to life in a very harsh
environment.
Success? Inevitably, you will talk to
people who have broken these rules
and are still claiming success. First of
all, how do you measure success? Is
success breeding 12 phas youngsters
per pair year after year?' Or is success
just managing to get one or two

youngsters "onto the peg?' You will
have to set your own standards. Sheer
behavioral diversity will ensure that a
few birds breed, no matter what the
conditions, preferring to ignore Mike
Fidler's rules.
What To Do
The Gouldian is an ideal avicultural
subject well suited to standard bird
room conditions.
Temperature in the bird room
should he maintained at a minimum of
63° F. Humidity is unimportant within
very wide tolerances.
Cages can he any type. Most of my
breeding pairs are housed in 19 in.
cube cages which I suggest is a minimum.
Anything from that size up is
suitable and there is no advantage or
benefit in any particular size or shape.
Nests. Gouldians use any kind of
nesting receptacle. In the wild, no two
nests are the same. However, more
consistent self-rearing results will he
obtained with nest boxes that are
approximately 4'12 in. square by 11 in.
long. These can he mounted either
vertically or horizontally, the birds do
not care.
Diet. The basic diet should consist
of a standard plain foreign finch mix.
My own mix is 25o/o canary, 25o/o white
millet, 25o/o red millet, and 25o/o
Japanese millet. This is not particularly
better than any other mix hut does
minimize wastage from uneaten seed.
Soft food. Provide a proprietary
16o/o protein egg food or soft food mix
during molting and breeding to which
a small amount of multi-vitamins may
he beneficially added.
Grit. Gouldians need grit. I know
that there has been some debate in the
U.S.A. as to whether grit is necessary,
hut, please believe me, for consistent
results feed grit to all Australian finches.
Water. It is important to supply fresh
water every day in clean containers.
Gouldians have a low tolerance to
common bacteria and contaminated
water containers in a warm room are
the perfect media for breeding bacteria.
Separate. Better results are obtained
if cocks and hens are kept separate in
larger flights or cages while not breeding.
During this period they should be
kept on a basic maintenance diet and

given soft food only once a week. To
bring them into breeding condition,
start feeding soft food at the rate of '/z
teaspoon per bird per day. Within six
weeks your birds will he in breeding
condition.
Pairing. Pair up your cocks and
hens. It matters not who goes in the
cage first. Put some dried grass or
coconut fiber into the nest box to give
then a start and leave an adequate pile
of nesting material in the cage. It is
important to let them build their own
nest as it is a part of the pair bonding
process and also helps bring both partners
into breeding condition.
Eggs. Within a further three to six
weeks you should have eggs. If you
are just starting out with Gouldians and
have just a few pairs, it may he better
not to inspect the nest box once brooding
has begun. Although most pairs are
highly tolerant, the occasional pair will
desert if interfered with.
The eggs hatch after 16 days at
which stage start to increase the
amount of soft food provided. By the
tenth day after hatching, they will he
consuming three to four teaspoons per
day depending upon the number of
nestlings.
Juveniles will fledge on the 27th or
28th day and may be weaned at 35
days.
Now what? Provide the parents
with a fresh clean nest box on the 30th
day as they will he getting ready to
recycle and have often built their new
nest and begun to lay before the juveniles
are weaned. Do not attempt to
halt this recycling in the mistaken belief
that you are giving the hen a rest. It is
entirely normal for them to recycle and
holding them hack will only convince
them that conditions are no longer suitable
for breeding, bringing on an interim
molt.
Your only problem is likely to he the
failure of the parents to rear. This is
largely due to the number which are
being fostered in today's aviculture. If
they fail, let them have another try.
Pairs which fail the first or even the second
time often succeed on the next.
There are husbandry techniques
which can he employed to enhance
your success in self-rearing but that is
the subject of a future article.

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