Abstract
B ack in the early seventies I had several planted outdoor aviaries where breeding Gouldians proved to be a greater challenge than I had expected.
We live close to the ocean where afternoon breezes and morning fog don't encourage the well-being of these delicate birds. I had many losses, especially during the molt. After several bad seasons I gave up the project.
With increased availability of new mutations and the challenge still there, in 1982 I decided to try breeding Gouldians again, and chose to cage breed indoors. Cage breeding offers the opportunity to use more pairs in less space under a controlled environment.
Housing
For the Canary breeder who already has the bird room and breeding cages, it is an easy transition to make. Canary breeding season ends when Gouldians are ready to start. After routine cleaning of the breeding cages, they can be outfitted for Gouldian breeding. The only major change is the nest. The cup shaped canary nest is replaced with a nest box. The nest box is hung in front of the breeding cage with the entrance of the nest box facing the cage. Some modification must be made to the front of the cage to allow the birds access to the nest box. ·
My breeding cages are two feet wide, one foot deep and 18 inches high. I am sure these dimensions are not critical but that is what I have. The cage is a wooden box with wire in the front only. Perches are placed at each end, giving the birds some flight room.
I set up several pairs of Gouldians, and for each pair I set up two pairs of Societies. Society Finches are also housed in individual cages with a nest box as I described for the Gouldians.
Since breeding takes place during
the fall and winter, the night temperature drops below a comfortable level. To keep the temperature at 65- 70 degrees F, I use an electric heater. The heater is a radiator-style with sealed oil and thermostat. This kind of heater is not harmful to the birds, as opposed to the type of heater with exposed hot wires. The hot wires burn dust particles which creates harmful gases. It should never be used in the bird room.
Breeding
I set up for breeding Gouldians in late August and finish in January. At the beginning of breeding season I begin to extend the daylight with artificial light. The lights I use are Vita-Lite, by Dura Lite Co. The length of the day is increased gradually during the first month of breeding season, an increase of half an hour per week, until the length of the day is 15 hours long, which is sufficient to stimulate them to breed. For Societies, the length of the day does not appear to make any difference. At about five P.M. they are all in their nest boxes, whether the lights are on or off.
Placing a small amount of nesting material (dry grass) in the Gouldian nest box and in the cage for them to use will entice them to get going on nesting. Some will tear the newspaper on the bottom of the cage and take it in the nest box. Gouldians are notoriously bad nest builders. Some don't build a nest at all. They simply go in the nest box and lay their eggs. For that reason I have made wooden blocks that fit on the bottom of the nest box. The blocks have a concave surface to keep the eggs in the center.
Once Gouldians start laying eggs, I check the nest box every day. When the first egg are laid, I place a paper sticker on the nest box and write the date when the first egg was found. Then I keep track of each egg until the
Gouldians skip laying eggs for two days. This means they have completed this clutch of eggs. For the record, I enter the number of eggs laid after each date.
Fostering
If Gouldians show an interest to sit on the eggs, I let them, and if they successfully raise their babies I will continue to let them raise their own. But if they fail, They are no longer trusted and their next clutch of eggs is placed under Societies. Societies will incubate the Gouldian's eggs, hatch them, and raise the baby Gouldians to full maturity. I must admit Society Finches are not infallible, but in 95% of cases they do their job of fostering flawlessly.
If the eggs are removed from the Gouldians immediately after they lay their clutch of eggs, they will rest for 10 days and start laying their next clutch. Again, I will write the date of the first eggs laid, and then for every first egg of subsequent clutches I will do the same. This record keeping gives me an indication of when to look for a new clutch of eggs and when to remove the eggs.
Most pairs will continue to lay the eggs until I stop them some time in January. I had hens that laid up to 85 eggs in a season. Unfortunately, not all of the eggs are fertile. Only a very small percentage are. At times, the whole clutch will be clear eggs, and the next clutch will be partially fertile Cit appears that male Gouldians have frequent headaches).
As I mentioned before, Societies are housed much the same as Gouldians. The Society nest box also has the concave block on the bottom to keep the eggs in the center. There I place two or three fake eggs for them to sit on. If the Societies are compatible they will soon begin to sit on the eggs. Some pairs will spend lots of time in the nest box, but will not sit on eggs. Therefore, to assure myself that they are really incubating the eggs, I test the eggs by bringing the eggs to my lips, one at a time, to feel how warm they are.
If the eggs are warm, Societies are ready to accept the eggs from the Gouldians. If eggs are not available from Gouldians, the Societies will continue to sit on the fake eggs until they
are replaced with Gouldian eggs, and then continue to incubate until the eggs hatch.
When I set up Societies I take two healthy birds and put them together. The pair of Societies need not be male and female. Two males will incubate and feed just as well.
At the time Societies are feeding babies, in addition to the modified finch mix, I supply them with nestling food. I do the same for Gouldians if they are feeding. I continue offering nestling food to the babies after they fledge, and during the molt.