Journey to the End of the Earth

Abstract

T wo years ago, I received the most exciting brochure from International Expeditions (IE) describing a 10-day trip to Patagonia and Tierra de! Fuego. I had used IE on my first of six visits to Peru in 1994 and was very pleased with their professional and comprehensive service. I commented to my wife, Rita, that this was a real dream vacation and that we should do it "someday." Then in early June 2000, I received another brochure with the 2001 schedule and, about the .same time, learned of the sudden death of Susan Bondelier, a friend and fellow aviculturist. The news of Sue's death at 53 not only shocked me but also brought my own mortality into sharp focus. Rather than say, "I could have, should have, or would have," I called International Expeditions (800-633- 4734) and booked the tour for January to make the dream come true. So this article is dedicated to Sue - parrot breeder, wildlife rescue volunteer, and champion of aviculture.

The adventure began with a flight to Miami where we connected with Lan Chile's long (8-hour) flight

to Santiago, Chile. IE demonstrated their superiority by booking the group at the Santiago Sheraton where we could rest in style. The next day we flew to Punta Arenas where we were to board the M/V Terras Australis, a 100-passenger cruiser, for our weeklong voyage of discovery and exploration.

Geography. Patagonia is the southern 30% of South America located poleward of 40° south latitude. Most of the region is in Argentina between the Andes and the Atlantic. Patagonia means "big feet" because when Ferdinand Magellan first saw the early inhabitants in 1520, the Tehuelche Indians, they were wearing oversize boots. Early travelers, such as Darwin, characterized the area as wild, untamed, and inhabited by savages. Obviously, that is no longer true but the area continues to be rugged, windy, beautiful, and fascinating. Tierra de! Fuego is an archipelago separated from the tip of the South American mainland by the Straits of Magellan. When Magellan discovered the area, he noticed smoke rising from a number of Indian campfires and called it Tierra de! Fuego or "land of fire." In 1881, a boundary dispute was resolved by assigning the western two thirds of the archi-

 

pelago to Chile and the remainder to Argentina, but most of Patagonia is located in Argentina. The capital of Tierra del Fuego is Ushuaia, Argentina, which is considered to be the southernmost city in the world. Puerto Williams, south of the Beagle Channel in Chile, is the southernmost town in the world. Thus, based on permanent population, my journey was to the end of the earth1

Punta Arenas. This city (pop. 130,000), founded in 1848, is the southernmost in Chile. The houses and buildings are a colorful mixture of European and Latin American architecture. We toured the city and visited a magnificent cemetery with its beautiful landscaping and elegant crypts. We also visited a museum where we learned about the early inhabitants (Tehuelches, Onas, Yaganes, and Alacalufes) of Patagonia and were treated to a large room of taxidermy specimens. Most of the area's extensive wildlife was represented and we were able to see some birds (such as the austral parakeet and magellan woodpecker) that we had hoped to see, but didn't, in the wild.

Punta Arenas was the beginning and ending port for our ship, Terra Australis. The expedition team included not only certified guides but

 

also several of the leading ornithologists in Chile. We were broken down into four groups so that our learning experience could be maximized. The ship's accommodations were most satisfactory and life on board was great with excellent food, Chilean wines, and detailed briefings.

Ushuaia. The name of this city (pop. 44,000) means "Bay to the West," and it is a major port for ships exporting wood, furs, wool, and frozen meat and importing food, vehicles, and gasoline for the residents. It is also known as the "Gateway to the Antarctic." Again, the architecture is colorful and varied. We had a super time visiting the Tierra de! Fuego National Park and rode on a narrow-gauge (20") train through a forest harvested by convicts in the early 1900s. The train is called "Train to the End of the World." It was surprising to see so many large trees so far south. They resembled oaks but are actually the southern beech and attract many birds such as the Magellan Woodpecker and Austral Parrot, the world's most southern parrot. After an exceptional barbecue lunch, we were turned loose for shopping, which was excellent.

Puerto Williams. This town (pop. 2,200) was very basic with more simple architecture. It is named after Commandant Juan Williams, chief of an 1843 expedition that claimed the Magellan Straits for Chile. The Chilean navy maintains a presence in this port that involves half of the population. We toured a remarkably comprehensive anthropology museum and learned more about the early Indians and saw another collection of stuffed critters. We also met the last surviving pure Yagan Indian. We then visited some of the ancient sites where the Yaganes lived and performed their rites.

 

 

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