Abstract
I followed the man around a large room. He was dressed in a white coat and moved so briskly that it flapped like a kite in the wind. No, I wasn't pursuing a doctor. The man was a judge of pigeons - the event, a Grand National Pigeon Show.
As each show season approaches, breeders begin to envision receiving ribbons, trophies, and cash prizes. They want to impress those men in white coats. They want to feel they've advanced in a hobby they somehow can't live without, to open the show report and find their name listed among the top breeders in the country.
A few exhibitors realize their aspirations. Others shake their heads and chalk it up to fate, bribery, or knowing the right people. Now, I won't deny that these factors can and probably do play some role in all bird shows. But there are other considerations. Chances are the exhibitor with consistent wins in the showroom has learned a few basics in regards to preparing both his birds and himself for competition. Let's look at a few of these, often ignored, "keys" to showroom success.
Let's start off with the bird. After all, you may be dressed like a million dollars, with every hair in place, but the judge isn't looking at you (at least he shouldn't be). It's logical to assume that you selected a few of your very best specimens for the show. In other words, much as I'm allergic to standard books, I hope you looked at the standard more than once. You would be wise to have nearly memorized the standard so that you know what an acceptable Indian fantail looks like. And, should you find you possess no acceptable Indians, enter a good, clean bird anyway. You'll learn something just from the experience. (For one thing you'll learn whether or not you can handle criticism. Ha!) And, your fellow exhibitors may be able to give you some good advice for improving the quality of your stock.
Now that you have selected the birds you wish to enter, the real job begins.
Birds love to bathe. Everyone knows that. Yet, an awful lot of birds must crawl into their drinking vessel if they want to wet their plumage. From several feet away, these birds may appear to be clean and well-cared for. But a judge picks up each bird, handles it, even examines the feathering. If he finds soiled feathers, or bug holes, your show is over before it began.
Bright, warm days are the best times to offer a bath. But simple bathing will not eliminate lice and other creepy crawlies that love to live on your birds. Believe me, even a clean aviary is not completely free of these vermin. For this reason it is wise to resort to a pigeon dip once or twice a year.
Sodium fluoride makes an excellent dip for pigeons and doves. It is simple and effective when used as follows:
Mix one heaping tablespoon of sodium fluoride plus one tablespoon Ivory liquid in a gallon of tepid water. Stir until the powder has dissolved. Dip pigeons in the mixture, head and all. Let the birds dry naturally in the sunshine. The soap allows the sodium fluoride to penetrate the minuscule pores of the feathers where it remains and helps ward off lice for six to eight months. (After applying this technique, I found that those telltale pinholes in my birds' feathers ceased to occur.)
Don't be overcome with guilt just because your flock has that woebegon appearance after their dunking. You haven't inflicted pain, and, unless the weather is cold or draughty, you haven't chanced their health. In a few hours you'll notice a remarkable change. Feathers will have more lustre, a softer, silkier texture, and best of all, you'll have freed your entire loft of these troublesome bugs.
If you happen to live in one of the colder areas of the country, where dipping can't be done often, you may wish to supplement the procedure with a poultry dusting. I use a Pet, Poultry and Livestock Dust once a year as an additional precaution, dusting liberally under the wings and around the vent. The powder is helpful in controlling both lice and mites. Frequent use of both the dip and the powder plus occasional mild bath watet will insure you against the embarrassement of having your show birds disqualified.
You have half the battle licked if your birds are carefully selected and free from bugs. The additional steps you take will be your icing on the cake.
Some exhibitors like to use vaseline on their birds' feet to give them more lustre. That's fine as long as the bottoms of the feet aren't adorned with mudballs and excrement. Generally speaking, if loft floors are kept clean and dry, you won't be having to deal with any of these bugaboos. If you do have a foot problem or two, a cotton swab dipped in alcohol will help loosen the build-up while disinfecting the soft pad of the bird's foot.
How much can you do to help mother nature along? In bird showing there are some fine lines between grooming and cheating. While it is certainly acceptable to do a little plucking here and there, you have to stop short of sewing-in feathers where there aren't any. I've heard stories about fanciers using needle and thread to sew in a flight where it was missing. Problem with this was not only the question of ethics, but the guy used pink thread on a white flight. Judges are not stupid.
In some breeds, such as the longfaced clean-legged tumbler, a short beak is one of the important hallmarks of the breed. In day-to-day maintenance, filing and clipping the beak is necessary.
Thus, it would not be considered unethical to file the showbird's beak before bringing it to the exhibit hall. On the other hand, it would be scandalous to use your secretary's correction fluid to paint a colored feather white. In other words, use your good common sense. And, if in doubt, ask.
About a week before the big show is to take place, it would be a good idea to move your entries into a show-type cage. It will help accustom them to small quarters and will allow you to handle them frequently.