Breeding the Magpie Mannikin (Lonchura fringilloides)

Abstract

First successfully raised young hatched 12-11-88, fledged 1-3-89, weaned 1-21-89 in the state of Pennsylvania.

Magpie mannikins are the largest of the African mannikins. Sexes are alike although there is some color variation in that the female has more buff feathering in her abdomen while the males appear more white. I have found that the color variation seems more apparent in wild-caught birds and is nearly impossible to detect in domestically raised birds. This, perhaps, is age related. The birds are approximately 4-1 /2 inches long and have a strong, stocky body. Their bills are heavy and longer than other proportionately sized mannikins.

Courtship is composed of the male performing a typical mannikin type dance consisting of hopping up and down while gesticulating with the beak. His song (which really isn't a song) is similar to a Nun's call, a type of squeeky, high pitched note. The females do a ritual beak wiping while the males sing to them if breeding is to occur.

Magpies tend to be destructive with wicker nests, live plants and grasses. They enjoy stripping grasses and seeding heads of grasses and plants. Their large beak enables them to accomplish this with ease.

I have found these birds can be housed "in small groups providing the cage space is large and there are spots to escape and hide. However, when one pair decides to nest, the male will pursue and attack other "rivals" to drive them away from his perceived territory.

In my birdroom, I also breed the Java sparrow. This species has been a suitable companion in a holding flight situation. My holding cages are 4 feet long x 3 feet x 3 feet. There is some territorial behavior that occurs but the situation remains fairly peaceful. The Magpie can also be housed safely with weavers and whydahs. However, the situation must be carefully monitored for any signs of aggression.

I obtained my birds from a quarantine station and started with four birds and hoped for two pairs. These four were placed in my quarantine room in a cage 3 feet long x 2 feet x 2 feet. I supplied a large, wicker nest since I assumed (correctly) they would use it for roosting. Plastic asparagus fern was hung in various spots from the cage top and sides. Past experience had taught me that most birds like to hide in the fern and it, being plastic, is indestructable. I color banded the birds for identification. There was no way of determining their age but they were mature as evidenced by their beaks and feet.

All four roosted together in the wicker nest. After my self-imposed 30 day quaratine had expired, I moved the four birds to the birdroom to a similar sized cage. Various sizes and types of nests were offered. Natural perches are of pesticide-free tree branches. The four roosted again in a large, wicker nest until two birds paired off. This occurred approximately 90 days after their acquisition. The pair ignored manufactured nests and boxes and built a free form nest using the asparagus fern as a base. The male became aggressive during this building and I removed the second pair. The two members of the pair were determined by observation of the color bands. Nesting material consisted of dried grasses, coco fiber and burlap strands and wicker pieces from the roosting nest. To get these, they cheerfully bit into the woven fabric of the nest and pulled the horizontal pieces through. In about an hour, I had a Conestoga wagon-type frame left. Their nest resembled a hornet type nest with one tiny opening near the bottom. The nest cavity itself is built lower than the opening. Both spend most of the time in the nest.

Varieties of live food are offered to my birds as well as eggfood, modified Dr. Kray's diet (rice, corn, pinto beans, crumbled dog food) and greens. The Magpies love the large (pro so) millets and prefer a budgie type mix to the standard finch mix. They are also very fond of oat groats.

They eat live food (mealworms) only when in breeding condition. They consistently refuse wax moth larvae and white worms. I also offer mineral grit and oyster shell. My eggfood mixture is Mr. Robert Black's recipe from his book Nutrition of Finches and Cage Birds. These mixtures and foods are well accepted once the birds are acclimated.

My birdroom has natural light and is supplemented with Vita-Lights on timers. Other birds (mostly mannikins) occupy the room but breeding pairs are housed by themselves.

The hen laid four white eggs and incubated tightly. The first young, unfortunately, hatched while I was away for the weekend and a new caretaker was tending my flock. When I returned, I found all four chicks had been killed and thrown from the nest. I assumed this was, at least, partially due to the fact there was a change in routine as I am the primary caretaker.

 

 

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