Abstract
Without a doubt, one of the most popular families of African birds is the colorful waxbill. They vary in size from the tiny Golden-breasted Waxbill (Amandave sub/lava) at 3-1/2 inches up to the incredible beautiful Bluebills (Spermophaga) and Seedcrackers (Pirenestes) at about six inches. The Quail Finches (Ortygospiza) live almost exclusively on the ground while the Negro Finches (Nigrita) spend most of their lives in the forest canopy. Antpeckers (Parmoptila) require a minimum temperature of 70°F while the Crimson-wings (Cryptospiza) remain quite unconcerned when temperatures drop to near freezing point once they have been correctly acclimated. While all this information is interesting, it does not really help if you are trying to keep and breed these birds. Perhaps I should start by giving some general background information and then continue with a few breeding observations from some of the more common species.
Many waxbills have short, conical, red beaks. The color resembles sealing wax and this is most likely how they got their common name. They are often referred to as "finches" which is actually incorrect and can cause some confusion to newcomers to aviculture. True finches are generally larger than waxbills, up to 10 inches, and build a cup shaped nest (all waxbills build a domed nest). Probably the best known true finches in North American are both native birds: the House Finch (linnet) from the Western States and the closely related Purple Finch from the East. Waxbills occur naturally almost exclusively in Africa, (except for the Asian Strawberry Finches and the Australian Sydney Waxbill). Some of the more common species have been introduced into other parts of the world, i.e., southern Europe and central America.
A selection of mixed millets with the addition of small canary seed forms the basic diet. However, few species of waxbill will remain in good health if this is the only food offered. "Tonic" seeds, such as maw and niger, can be added. Soaked seed and millet sprays are a useful standby when the preferred seeding grasses are out of season. Various fruits, corn and greenfood are often appreciated. Whether they are breeding or not, livefood is essential to keep waxbills fit. Mealworms and their larvae are often the only livefood offered. However, it is very easy to start a fruitfly or whiteworm culture in a small box or old aquarium. When housed in an outside aviary, the waxbills will display their agility by catching all manner of livefood from moths and houseflies to earwigs and crickets. If the birds will accept a fine grade insectivorous food or eggfood, their health will certainly be benefitted. The diet should be rounded out with a good vitamin and mineral mix and crushed, baked eggshells.
There are no "hard and fast" rules regarding how "hardy" some species can be. As already stated, some require temperatures above 70°F while others are not bothered by temperatures near freezing. Over the course of time the aviculturist will gain that "feel" for their birds. The bird's body language will tell everything. A bird that is very active and in good, sleek condition is obviously quite fine, while a sick bird will sit on the perch with its feathers fluffed out and its eyes closed. I have had birds as small as Goldbreasts and Orange Cheeks that have overwintered without heat (but I live on Canada's "California" coast where the temperature rarely drops to below freezing). As a general rule, a minimum temperature of 50°F should be adequate, but keep an eye open for the body language.
It is very difficult to generalize when it comes to breeding. Some species breed during the rainy season while others prefer the dry season. However, in captivity I have found that the main breeding stimulus appears to be sufficient livefood. Most waxbills have a reputation for being "difficult" to breed but, once again, there are always exceptions. The following two examples show that a little luck always helps.
I had just obtained a pair of Schlegel's Green Twinspots (Mandingoa nitidula schlegeli) direct from quarantine. It was too early to put them outside and at the time I had no spare cages in the birdroom, so I placed a wire front on a cardboard box and put the birds in this temporary enclosure. Within a week the male was displaying, so I placed a four inch square cardboard nest box in the top corner. The birds layed four eggs and raised their young in a cardboard box! Three times!
The second example involves a pair of Red-cheeked Cordon Bleus (Uraeginthus bengalis) that I "rescued" from a local pet store. I housed these birds in a breeding cage 48" x 15" x 18" high. After two weeks, the hen was looking quite delicate. The next morning there was an egg laid in the middle of the cage. (I've been keeping birds for over 30 years and I still cannot tell if a bird is sick or if she is going to lay an egg!) I removed the egg and the next day there was a small circle of grass with an egg in the middle. I reached in to remove the egg and the hen attacked my hand! I built a nest in a wicker basket and hung it in the corner of the cage with the egg in it. They laid four more eggs and hatched all five with four of them fledging.
Some species have been bred in captivity so often that there are now pied mutations appearing occasionally. I have seen pied Goldenbreasted and Blue-capped Waxbills and I have heard of pied mutations with Strawberry and Fire Finches.
We have already discussed the diversity of this family and have looked at their general care. The following paragraphs contain descriptions and other pertinent information of some of the more common species.