Agapornis and the Amateur

Abstract

'-'nee introduced to the Agapornis, the aviculturist frequently decides to add this lively little hookbill to his or her collection of birds. While it tends to be hardy, its needs differ from those of the softbill and even other hooksbills. Instead of learning those differences by trial and error, the aviculturist may benefit from this guide to the selection and care of the lovebird.

SELECTION

Once decided to keep lovebirds, you need to select the perfect specimen. The best chance of success is with a young, healthy, Peach-faced or pied Peach-faced Lovebird. The Peach-faced is one of the easiest lovebirds to keep. Its engaging personality and lively manner will give you much entertainment. Choose a young bird, one with light markings across the brow, and, if possible, dark color at the base of the beak. A young bird more readily adjusts to you, your routine, and the diet you provide. The younger the bird, the easier it is to tame and train.

HEALTH

The Lovebird's health can be partly determined by observation, and partly by the seller's reputation. The bird should be alert, lively, sleek-feathered, and plump. Check both ends: eyes should be clear, and feathers around the vent should be clean. Avoid the "tame" bird huddling on a perch with its feathers fluffed out, eyes closed, head drooping or tucked under a wing. Nature's way is to hide weakness. By the time a bird displays signs of illness, it is often too ill to be helped. Because of this, any newly acquired bird should be quarantined in a part of the house separate from the other birds for a minimum of thirty days, to avoid introducing disease into your collection. If your bird should show signs of illness, try to keep it warm and quiet in a hospital cage, feed honey water, and make its favorite foods and seed easily available. Try to feed it a warm gruel. Ask advice of a veterinarian, or a fellow aviculturist. Keep a supply of pet antibiotics on hand and learn how to administer them before a health problem arises.

SEXING

Whether you choose one lovebird for a pet, or a pair, you will want to determine the sex of your bird. We all would. Unfortunately, only another lovebird knows for sure! Generally, the female has a broader head, shoulders, and pelvic span than the male. The first two characteristics can be observed, the third felt. To feel the pelvic area, hold the bird with the back against your palm, thumb and little finger capturing the wings against the body. The head will protrude between your second and third fingers. This leaves the belly area clear for you to insert your finger between the bird's legs. You should be able to feel two points of bone just in front of the tail. If the points are extremely close together, the bird may be a male. If you can almost insert your little finger between the points, it may be a female. You have a 50% chance of being right!

HOUSING

Choice of housing ranges from a parakeet cage to an outdoor aviary! Your purpose for acquiring the lovebird or birds will determine your choice. A large parakeet cage should be roomy enough for one bird, since your pet will be free part of each day. For breeding purposes, the double cage (36" x 15" x 24" high) will do for a pair. The habit of chewing should be considered if you build your own cage. Wood parts should be wire covered, or else plan on replacing them as the bird destroys them.

The lovebird can be an escape artist.

My first Peach-faced was. He would slip head and shoulders between two bars, expel his breath, and wriggle forward a little. Then he drew a deep breath and popped through the bars like a cork. He popped in and out at will, destroying everything he got his beak into.

Because of his habit of chewing, the lovebird must be separated from all other types of birds. He is capable of maiming or killing any bird smaller or more docile than himself. Never house them with finches, canaries, parakeets, or even cockatiels, if you value your other birds.

In addition to a cage, you need hoppers for seed and gravel, perches, and a watering device. Size and type of hoppers are determined by the size of the cage. Provide various perch widths for the bird to exercise his feet. Hampster water tubes provide closed systems which. controls evaporation, hang outside the cage for easy servicing, and do not allow the birds to contaminate the water. However, the bird must learn to drink from the tube, so also provide bowls of water at first. The tube must be checked frequently, as a sticky valve will create a vacuum, withholding water from the bird. A good type of gravity flow open drinker resembles a Mason jar turned upside down and screwed into a water dispenser.

 

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