Abstract
Being a bird lover I can't help but get excited when afforded an opportunity to introduce others to the surprising world of pigeons. Right away I want to expose you to some of the most elegant of the fancy breeds, to point out the flying athletes we thrill to watch, even brag about those big "meat birds" I found so prolific at the Grand National in Houston. But the thought that resides uppermost in my "bird" brain is involved with knowing how to get others to explore this world of pigeons themselves.
Perhaps this simple, but sincere composition might help smooth the way for those of you toying with the idea of Getting Started With Pigeons.
IN THE BEGINNING
My father calls the northwest "God's country'.' But my father has never raised pigeons. He never had to consider the needs of a flock of birds who have yielded some of their freedom and much of their responsibilities to a human being. He never had to determine whether putting his breeders together in February would result in a high mortality rate, or whether allowing his birds to nest through the moult would subject them to unusual stress. He never had to face the challenge of creating a top-notch show specimen prior to the fall show dates. And he never toyed with the idea of moving to California in order to lengthen his breeding season by three months.
IN A NUT SHELL
The breeding of pigeons, like that of any cage bird, is an an that requires a great deal of patience but produces phenomenal rewards in personal satisfaction if not in monetary gain. For one thing, the climate does play a role in breeding. Pigeons were never intended to live in one's house (though I must admit I've given a few pets such liberties upon occasion.) In truth, as long as their aviary is kept free of drafts and rain, these hardy birds can handle the cold temperatures. But it is foolish to consider breeding them when the days are short and the thermometer doesn't push above 40 degrees. What does this mean for many breeders' Well, it means that the ideal time to pair birds is when your geographical area is experiencing "spring-like" temperatures. To plunge into the project too soon would mean running the risk of losing squabs through exposure. Whether given a long breeding season or a short one, there are a few devices you can practice in order to make the most of the time allotted you.
First, you must give each pair their own nest box. Sounds simple. Yet many beginning breeders, myself included, have fallen into the trap of allowing birds to nest on the floor. Before you know it there are a pair of eggs behind the door, another pair in a dark corner and considerable fighting over floor space.
The solution may be as simple as securing some fruit or vegetable crates, which wiU serve quite nicely for nest boxes until you acquire time, experience, or enough clever neighbors to construct something more substantial. The important thing to keep in mind is that each mated pair requires enough space and privacy to enhance their nesting instinct. lf you haven't an eye for big production, you won't need extra nesting facilities. However, should you wane to work your pairs harder, it is wise to have boxes available for a pair or two of feeders. (Feeders might be pigeons you do not care to breed but who have a proven record for being excellent parents.) The only crick then is to steal the feeder's eggs and replace them with those of your breeding pairs. Of course you'll need to keep some kind of records or you'll find yourself missing the blessed event. If you do, there will be others, as nature takes its course.
Nature may need a little assistance, however, if your first pigeon project is going to flourish. I don't think it's too simplistic to suggest that a high-quality diet and clean feeding vessels play a major role in any successful breeding campaign. Still, I can think of exceptions. For instance, I used to frequent a bird ranch where the charges subsisted on a handful of wheat tossed upon the ground twice a week. Grit was fed only once a month. Yet the birds appeared to be managing with their limited fare. What their keeper hadn't considered was the crucial importance of extra protein and vitamins during stress-filled breeding months. I suppose a pellet might afford the best insurance that your flock gets full benefits from their rations. But I prefer feeding a mixture of grains including corn, maple peas, safflower, wheat and millet. In addition, I mix vitamins in their drinking water and slip them a cod liver oil capsule (10 minims) once a week. It's a very good idea to supplement the amount of calcium given by lacing the grit with a high-potency mineral powder. This extra calcium is extremely effective in preventing what is known as "softshelled" eggs (a state in which the egg itself and membrane appear normal while the outside shell coating appears completely non-existent).
Medicating birds seems to be a subject of much dispute among pigeon breeders. I know several fanciers whose birds have probably never tasted fresh "unspiked" H20. Month after month they are given medications to prevent the occurrence of canker, para-typhoid, coccidiosis and worm infestations. Some of these birds are actually killed from the cure, so to speak. Thus, the majority of breeders seem to opt for medicating just prior to and at the conclusion of the breeding season, while maintaining reasonably sanitary loft conditions.
One of the preferred worm medications is Tramisol, which is considered very effective against everything but the tapeworm and is easily administered in the drinking water.
A three to five day treatment of Emtryl is effective in combating canker, and Nitrofurazone seems proficient in the control of paratyphoid and coccidiosis. Of course there are other illnesses common to pigeons as with all cage birds. And the trouble always seems to be ''pinpointing'' the problem, as many of the symptoms are similar. In such instances, it doesn't pay to play doctor. I always prefer turning to a good veterinarian with a specialty in bird ailments. It can cost a bit of money, but it can save your hobby. You must consider the consequences of guesswork versus expertise.