Abstract
By October, most canaries have completed their annual moult and should be ready for separating and sorting. Some will be selected as potential show competitors, others for sale and still others for retention as breeders.
The wise novice will buy new birds to add to and upgrade his stock at this time in order to obtain choice birds and have them adjust to new quarters and food well before the breeding season commences.
WHERETO BUY
Judging from my mail, I would guess that a large majority of new canary breeders buy a single pair of canaries haphazard ly - just to try their hand at breeding. Unfortunately, the same large majority finish the season with no results at all, sometimes losing one or both adult canaries!
Ironically, there are newcomers who experience a windfall - the results are overwhelming and, since they were not prepared adequately, give up after one season.
There are those, of course, who persevere no matter what the circumstances but do not know where or what to buy to enjoy success.
The very best way for a novice to learn is to join a bird club in his vicinity. Recommendations and referrals are the best sources for purchasing new birds and an exchange of ideas with other bird breeders help avoid many disappointments.
WHAT TO BUY
After a season or two of raising little yellow songsters, many newcomers are intrigues with the "type" canaries - the larger Borders, Norwich or perhaps the operatic Rollers, and are ready to specialize. "Nu-color canaries" are fascinating to develop and this is an art in itself. There are many reliable and conscientious breeders who produce top quality birds of the variety you decide on and will be happy to help you choose one or more pairs of starting breeders.
CONDITIONING
Whatever variety of canaries the breeder raises, all must be housed adequately and conditioned for the forthcoming breeding season.
Cages or flights should be as large as facilities permit to encourage exercise in preparation for the long months of breeding.
After moulting is complete, a basically wholesome diet consisting of clean, fresh seed, gravel, cuttlebone and fresh water will keep the canary flock in sound health until about one month before breeding commences. There are some exceptions to this rule - if the canaries are housed outdoors in large flights in cold climates, condition food may be added to the diet ( oats or oatmeal will add body heat and weight). My particular "formula" used constantly from pre-conditioning time to moulting time contains such items as cornmeal, dry baby cereal, raw oatmeal, Petamine, etc. I add fresh wheat germ meal until the first clutch is weaned, deleting it completely until the following year.
CHOOSING YOUR BREEDING PAIRS
Whether purchasing new pairs or using last year's stock, do be sure to follow the basic concept of breeding "frost to nonfrost", or, in other terms "soft-feather to hard-feather". An experienced breeder will help to determine which is which or, if help is not available, the following hints may enlighten the novice:
A "frost" (the term usually used for red factor canaries) is a bird that shows whitish tips on the individual feather and appears to be a fuller, fatter bird (soft feather). Conversely, the non-frost or hard-feathered' bird shows deep color down to the very tips of each feather and appears sleek and slim.
Look for a broad head in most types and avoid a long-legged bird. For upgrading, choose a large cock for size with a well-conformed hen. I value my "greens" and dark "bronzes". When paired with a clear yellow or frost red, the babies that are produced from this mating range from dark to absolutely clear vibrant color, with excellent feather texture.
When pairing whites, the safest mating is to breed a clear white to a dark or heavily variegated blue. The results will be blues, clear whites or light or heavy variegates. When mating a white to a yellow, half the offspring will be white.
ADDITIONAL HINTS AND "STEPSA VERS"
Use a combination baby bottle and nipple brush for cleaning water tubes.
Keep a low wattage frosted blue or green light in the aviary or birdroom at night - all year (to prevent deaths in case of fright during the night.)
Space permitting, keep supplies of seed, gravel and a gallon jug of water in the birdroom for easy refills.
Use "pop-bottle" waterers for community flights with ten or more birds.
Keep a nail clipper handy - all the birds' nails should be checked regularly but if a bird is removed or transferred for any reason, make a practice to check the nails and clip if necessary. At this time, also anoint the legs with Scalex or olive oil.
A quick and easy "hospital cage" is prepared by removing the bottom tray of a small cage and placing a· heating pad in its place. Remove high perches, attach one perch close to the bottom, place a small thermometer on the same level as the perch and cover the cage with a towel, adjusting any opening to bring the temperature up to 90°. Check the water tube frequently for rapid evaporation and place seed in a "hook-on" container close to perch.